The Cut Guide  ·  Reference Fancy Shape  ·  Step Cut Family

Shape  ·  Face-Up View

Light Performance  ·  Live

Cut Reference  ·  No. 009

Asscher
Cut

Square Step Cut  ·  58 Facets  ·  Octagonal
Stone
Diamond▾
Diamond
Moissanite
Sapphire
Ruby
Emerald
Yellow Diamond
Amethyst

The square step cut with a century of history. An optical X at its center, uncompromising clarity demands, and the most Art Deco soul of any shape in the collection.

The Asscher cut is a square step cut with a high crown, small table, and deep pavilion — producing an optical effect unlike any other diamond shape. When you look down through the table of a well-cut Asscher, concentric square reflections recede toward the center in an X-shaped pattern, creating a depth illusion that brilliant-cut diamonds cannot replicate. It is optically closer to an emerald cut than any other shape, sharing the same step-cut structure and clarity demands — but the square outline and deeper pavilion create a distinctly different visual character.

Origin

The Asscher cut was developed by Joseph Asscher of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam and patented in 1902. The original Asscher cut — now sometimes called the "classic Asscher" — had 58 facets, a high crown, and a very small table. The Royal Asscher Diamond Company introduced the Royal Asscher cut in 2001, a proprietary updated version with 74 facets and improved light performance. Both are considered Asscher cuts in the market, though only the Royal Asscher is a registered trademark of the company.

On The Hand
Neutral
The octagonal square outline sits proportionally on the finger without elongating or widening. The cropped corners soften the geometric impression vs. a princess cut. Works across most hand types — the square format particularly suits shorter, wider fingers where elongated shapes can look proportionally large.
VS1+
Min. Clarity
1902
Asscher Patent
−20%
vs. Round
1.00–1.05
L:W Ratio
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Asscher Cut thecutguide.com
Specifications
Table Percentage
55 – 65%
Smaller than emerald cut by design. The small table and high crown produce the characteristic X optical pattern — a larger table diminishes it.
Depth Percentage
60 – 75%
Deeper than emerald cut by design. The depth is what creates the receding X optical effect visible from face-up.
Length-to-Width Ratio
1.00 – 1.05
Must read square. Above 1.10 it becomes a rectangular emerald cut — the square is fundamental to the shape's optical identity.
GIA Cut Grade
—
Fancy Shape
Step-cut clarity rules apply here even more strictly than emerald cut — the deeper pavilion creates a more revealing optical environment. VS1 minimum; VVS2 or better above 1.5ct.
Polish / Symmetry
Exc / Exc
Non-negotiable. The X optical pattern requires perfect bilateral symmetry — any deviation is immediately visible in the face-up view.
Light Performance
Brilliance62
Fire74
Scintillation60
Size per Carat78
Clarity Concealment32

The lowest clarity concealment in the collection. The X optical effect is beautiful — and merciless on inclusions. Budget for VS1 minimum.

Budget
vs. Round Brilliant
−20 to −25%
The discount is real on paper — but budget the savings directly into clarity. VS1 Asscher typically costs close to VS2 round brilliant of equivalent size.
Lab-Grown Asscher
−40 to −60%
Lab-grown stones often have fewer inclusions at equivalent grades — a direct benefit for this shape. The lab-grown Asscher offers the strongest clarity-adjusted value of any step cut.
What Retailers Won't Tell You
⚠ Clarity Requirements Are Stricter Than Emerald
The Asscher's deep pavilion is more optically revealing than an emerald cut — inclusions appear larger and more clearly. VS1 is the practical floor; VVS2 recommended above 1.5ct. If you've been shopping emerald cuts at the same clarity grade, step up before you buy an Asscher.
⚠ Classic and Royal Asschers Are Not the Same
Both are sold simply as "Asscher cuts" in most showrooms. The Royal Asscher (74 facets, trademarked) offers more brilliance; the classic (58 facets) has purer step-cut character. Know which you're looking at before discussing price — the Royal commands a significant premium and is only available through authorized dealers.
The Cut Guide  ·  Assessment  ·  Asscher Cut
"The rarest optical experience in the collection — a diamond that draws the eye inward rather than outward. The X pattern at the center of a well-cut Asscher is genuinely unlike anything a brilliant cut produces. The constraints are identical to emerald cut but more severe: clarity cannot be compromised, symmetry is everything, and the price advantage over round dissolves once clarity is correctly budgeted. This is a shape for buyers who know exactly what they want."
Facets
Count & structure
Read guide →
Graded Cuts
Which cuts GIA grades
Read guide →
Clarity Floor
Eye-clean by cut type
Read guide →
Compare Asscher vs Emerald → Specs · Performance · Verdict
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