The Cut Guide  ·  Reference Fancy Shape  ·  Step Cut Family

Shape  ·  Face-Up View

Light Performance  ·  Live

Cut Reference  ·  No. 009

Asscher
Cut

Square Step Cut  ·  58 Facets  ·  Octagonal

The square step cut with a century of history. An optical X at its center, uncompromising clarity demands, and the most Art Deco soul of any shape in the collection.

The Asscher cut is a square step cut with a high crown, small table, and deep pavilion — producing an optical effect unlike any other diamond shape. When you look down through the table of a well-cut Asscher, concentric square reflections recede toward the center in an X-shaped pattern, creating a depth illusion that brilliant-cut diamonds cannot replicate. It is optically closer to an emerald cut than any other shape, sharing the same step-cut structure and clarity demands — but the square outline and deeper pavilion create a distinctly different visual character.

Origin

The Asscher cut was developed by Joseph Asscher of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam and patented in 1902. The original Asscher cut — now sometimes called the "classic Asscher" — had 58 facets, a high crown, and a very small table. The Royal Asscher Diamond Company introduced the Royal Asscher cut in 2001, a proprietary updated version with 74 facets and improved light performance. Both are considered Asscher cuts in the market, though only the Royal Asscher is a registered trademark of the company.

On The Hand
Neutral
The octagonal square outline sits proportionally on the finger without elongating or widening. The cropped corners soften the geometric impression vs. a princess cut. Works across most hand types — the square format particularly suits shorter, wider fingers where elongated shapes can look proportionally large.
VS1+
Min. Clarity
1902
Asscher Patent
−20%
vs. Round
1.00–1.05
L:W Ratio
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Asscher Cutthecutguide.com
Specifications
Table Percentage
55 – 65%
Smaller than emerald cut by design. The small table and high crown produce the characteristic X optical pattern — a larger table diminishes it.
Depth Percentage
60 – 75%
Deeper than emerald cut by design. The depth is what creates the receding X optical effect visible from face-up.
Length-to-Width Ratio
1.00 – 1.05
Must read square. Above 1.10 it becomes a rectangular emerald cut — the square is fundamental to the shape's optical identity.
GIA Cut Grade
—
Fancy Shape
Step-cut clarity rules apply here even more strictly than emerald cut — the deeper pavilion creates a more revealing optical environment. VS1 minimum; VVS2 or better above 1.5ct.
Polish / Symmetry
Exc / Exc
Non-negotiable. The X optical pattern requires perfect bilateral symmetry — any deviation is immediately visible in the face-up view.
Light Performance
Brilliance62
Fire74
Scintillation60
Size per Carat78
Clarity Concealment32

The lowest clarity concealment in the collection. The X optical effect is beautiful — and merciless on inclusions. Budget for VS1 minimum.

Budget
vs. Round Brilliant
−20 to −25%
The discount is real on paper — but budget the savings directly into clarity. VS1 Asscher typically costs close to VS2 round brilliant of equivalent size.
Lab-Grown Asscher
−40 to −60%
Lab-grown stones often have fewer inclusions at equivalent grades — a direct benefit for this shape. The lab-grown Asscher offers the strongest clarity-adjusted value of any step cut.
What Retailers Won't Tell You
⚠ Stricter Clarity Than Emerald Cut
The Asscher's deep pavilion creates a more revealing optical environment than emerald cut. VS2 inclusions that are marginal in an emerald cut are often plainly visible in an Asscher. VS1 is the practical floor; VVS2 is strongly recommended above 1.5ct. Buyers who move from emerald to Asscher and maintain the same clarity grade will almost always be disappointed. The GIA clarity plot is not optional — position matters as much as grade.
⚠ Classic vs. Royal Asscher
The Royal Asscher cut (74 facets, registered trademark) and the standard Asscher cut (58 facets) are both sold as "Asscher cuts" in the market. The Royal Asscher is a proprietary cut available only through authorized dealers and commands a significant premium. Neither is objectively superior — the Royal version offers more brilliance; the classic offers a purer step-cut character. Know which one you're buying before agreeing to a price.
The Cut Guide  ·  Assessment  ·  Asscher Cut
"The rarest optical experience in the collection — a diamond that draws the eye inward rather than outward. The X pattern at the center of a well-cut Asscher is genuinely unlike anything a brilliant cut produces. The constraints are identical to emerald cut but more severe: clarity cannot be compromised, symmetry is everything, and the price advantage over round dissolves once clarity is correctly budgeted. This is a shape for buyers who know exactly what they want."
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