The Cut Guide  ·  Reference Fancy Shape  ·  Brilliant Family

Shape  ·  Face-Up View

Light Performance  ·  Live

Cut Reference  ·  No. 007

Marquise
Cut

Navette Brilliant  ·  56–58 Facets  ·  Two-Pointed

The largest face-up size of any cut per carat weight. Two points, maximum elongation, and the most dramatic silhouette in the collection.

The marquise — also called navette, meaning "little boat" — is a football-shaped brilliant cut with two pointed ends and a curved belly. Of all diamond shapes, it returns the largest face-up surface area per carat weight, making a given stone appear substantially larger than its weight suggests. Both points require prong protection. Like the oval and pear, virtually all marquise cuts exhibit a bowtie — and the marquise bowtie is typically more pronounced than on other elongated shapes due to its greater length-to-width ratio. In-person evaluation is essential.

Origin

The marquise cut is attributed to King Louis XV of France, who reportedly commissioned the shape in the mid-18th century, requesting a diamond that matched the smile of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. Whether the story is accurate or apocryphal, the name and the shape have persisted. The modern marquise brilliant, with its optimized facet arrangement for maximum light return, was refined in the early 20th century alongside the round brilliant. The shape saw its commercial peak in the 1970s–80s and has experienced periodic revival cycles since.

On The Hand
Max. Elongating
The most elongating outline of any diamond shape — dramatically slims and lengthens the finger. Best suited to longer fingers where the full silhouette can be appreciated. Both pointed tips require V-prong protection. A particularly strong choice for anyone prioritizing finger-length illusion over face-up size alone.
Largest
Face-Up/Carat
1.75–2.15
Ideal L:W Ratio
−20%
vs. Round
2
Points to Protect
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Marquise Cutthecutguide.com
Specifications
Table Percentage
53 – 63%
Proportion tolerance is wider than round. Prioritize L:W ratio and bowtie severity over table percentage.
Depth Percentage
58 – 68%
Consistent with other elongated brilliants. The longer outline absorbs depth without significant face-up size loss.
Length-to-Width Ratio
1.75 – 2.15
2.00 is the classic marquise proportion. Below 1.60 it reads as a wide oval; above 2.20 it begins to look fragile.
GIA Cut Grade
—
Fancy Shape
Symmetry is paramount — both points must lie on the central axis. Off-center points are uncorrectable and immediately visible in the setting.
Polish / Symmetry
Exc / Exc
Non-negotiable. An asymmetric marquise with misaligned points is among the most obvious quality failures in any diamond shape.
Light Performance
Brilliance80
Fire78
Scintillation76
Size per Carat96
Clarity Concealment78

The marquise bowtie is typically the most pronounced of any elongated brilliant. A faint bowtie is acceptable; severe bowties significantly impact center-stone appearance.

Budget
vs. Round Brilliant
−20 to −25%
Among the largest discounts of any brilliant shape. Combined with maximum face-up size, the value proposition is strong for buyers who want visual impact.
Lab-Grown Marquise
−40 to −55%
Same bowtie and symmetry evaluation applies. The lab-grown discount on top of the fancy shape discount makes this one of the highest-value combinations in the collection.
What Retailers Won't Tell You
⚠ The Bowtie Is Worse Here
The marquise bowtie is typically more severe than on oval or pear cuts due to the shape's greater elongation. A severe bowtie on a marquise can create a dark band across the entire width of the stone at the center. GIA does not note bowtie severity. Request an ASET image and always view in person. Online purchases of marquise cuts without ASET documentation are particularly high-risk.
⚠ Both Tips Must Be Set in V-Prongs
The marquise has two sharp points — both are vulnerable to chipping from impact. A setting without V-prongs or full bezel coverage at the tips is structurally inadequate for daily wear. This is a more significant constraint than the pear's single point, and it limits setting style options considerably. Factor setting cost into the total budget from the beginning.
The Cut Guide  ·  Assessment  ·  Marquise Cut
"The shape that delivers the most diamond for the money — if you're measuring in face-up surface area. The elongating effect is unmatched, the discount is real, and a well-cut marquise with a faint bowtie is genuinely striking. The constraints are also real: two points to protect, a bowtie to evaluate in person, and symmetry that admits no compromise. This is a high-reward shape for a buyer who does the work."
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