The Cut Guide  ·  Reference Fancy Shape  ·  Brilliant Family

Shape  ·  Face-Up View

Light Performance  ·  Live

Cut Reference  ·  No. 006

Pear
Cut

Pear Brilliant  ·  58–71 Facets  ·  Modified Brilliant

The most directional cut in the collection. A single point, a single orientation, and a bowtie that every buyer needs to evaluate in person.

The pear cut — also called a teardrop or pendeloque — combines a rounded base with a single point, producing a hybrid silhouette that elongates dramatically on the finger. It is a modified brilliant with 58 or more facets arranged to balance the asymmetric outline. Like the oval and marquise, virtually all pear cuts exhibit a bowtie — a dark, bow-tie-shaped shadow across the center caused by the geometry of the elongated outline. The severity of the bowtie varies widely and cannot be assessed from a photograph. In-person evaluation or an ASET image is required.

Origin

The pear shape dates to the 15th century, attributed to Flemish cutter Lodewyk van Berquem, who is credited with pioneering the use of diamond dust as an abrasive to polish facets. The modern pear brilliant, with its optimized 58-facet arrangement, evolved alongside the round brilliant in the early 20th century as cutting technology improved. The shape has cycled in and out of fashion repeatedly — most recently experiencing a significant resurgence driven by celebrity engagement ring coverage in the 2010s.

On The Hand
Elongating
Worn with the point toward the fingertip, the pear produces one of the strongest elongating effects of any shape. Ideal for shorter fingers. The single point requires a prong for protection. Some wearers orient the point toward the wrist — purely a personal choice with no structural consequence.
1.45–1.75
Ideal L:W Ratio
Always
Bowtie Present
−15%
vs. Round
1458
Est. Origin
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Pear Cutthecutguide.com
Specifications
Table Percentage
53 – 63%
Less critical than on a round. Priority goes to L:W ratio and bowtie severity — not table alone.
Depth Percentage
58 – 68%
Consistent with oval. The elongated silhouette is forgiving of depth variation relative to rounds.
Length-to-Width Ratio
1.45 – 1.75
Below 1.40 reads almost round from a distance. Above 1.80 begins to look stretched and thin.
GIA Cut Grade
Fancy Shape
Symmetry is the critical factor — the two shoulders must mirror each other. An asymmetric pear is immediately visible and non-correctable.
Polish / Symmetry
Exc / Exc
Symmetry is non-negotiable on this shape. Both Excellent — and still verify shoulder profile in person.
Light Performance
Brilliance82
Fire80
Scintillation78
Size per Carat92
Clarity Concealment80

Bowtie severity directly impacts scintillation. A faint bowtie is acceptable; moderate-to-severe bowties significantly reduce the center's sparkle quality.

Budget
vs. Round Brilliant
−15 to −20%
Genuine discount — and the elongated silhouette makes the stone appear larger than its carat weight suggests.
Lab-Grown Pear
−40 to −55%
Same bowtie evaluation rules apply. The bowtie is a geometric property of the cut, not the origin of the stone.
What Retailers Won't Tell You
⚠ The Bowtie Is Not in the Report
GIA does not grade or note the bowtie effect on pear cut reports. A severe bowtie can cover 20–30% of the stone's face with a dark shadow — and a certificate photograph will not show it. Request an ASET image or view the stone in person under varied lighting before purchasing. Retailers who sell pears online without ASET images are asking you to buy blind.
⚠ Shoulder Symmetry Cannot Be Fixed
The two rounded shoulders of a pear must be mirror images of each other. An asymmetric shoulder profile — where one lobe is higher, wider, or more curved than the other — cannot be corrected by a jeweler and is visible to the naked eye. Always view face-up before purchasing. This is the single most common quality issue on pear cuts sold online.
The Cut Guide  ·  Assessment  ·  Pear Cut
"A shape that rewards careful selection and punishes shortcuts. The elongating effect is dramatic, the size per carat is among the best in the collection, and a well-cut pear with a faint bowtie and symmetric shoulders is genuinely beautiful. The problem is that a mediocre pear — one with a severe bowtie or mismatched shoulders — is immediately apparent. This shape cannot be purchased from a photograph alone."
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