Shape · Face-Up View
Light Performance · Live
The most directional cut in the collection. A single point, a single orientation, and a bowtie that every buyer needs to evaluate in person.
The pear cut — also called a teardrop or pendeloque — combines a rounded base with a single point, producing a hybrid silhouette that elongates dramatically on the finger. It is a modified brilliant with 58 or more facets arranged to balance the asymmetric outline. Like the oval and marquise, virtually all pear cuts exhibit a bowtie — a dark, bow-tie-shaped shadow across the center caused by the geometry of the elongated outline. The severity of the bowtie varies widely and cannot be assessed from a photograph. In-person evaluation or an ASET image is required.
The pear shape dates to the 15th century, attributed to Flemish cutter Lodewyk van Berquem, who is credited with pioneering the use of diamond dust as an abrasive to polish facets. The modern pear brilliant, with its optimized 58-facet arrangement, evolved alongside the round brilliant in the early 20th century as cutting technology improved. The shape has cycled in and out of fashion repeatedly — most recently experiencing a significant resurgence driven by celebrity engagement ring coverage in the 2010s.
Bowtie severity directly impacts scintillation. A faint bowtie is acceptable; moderate-to-severe bowties significantly reduce the center's sparkle quality.